The “Great British Bake Off Effect” has been well documented but how did a homely baking show cause a seven-tiered wedding cake sized baking revolution? An average of 2.8 million viewers watched the first series in 2010; by the 5th series in 2014 this had ballooned to 10.1 million. But this is not passive TV watching, we are not tuning in to fill the time, then flicking over to another channel; instead we are rushing to our kitchens, dusting off the muffin trays and producing our own sweet masterpieces. After contestants were challenged to recreate Mary Berry’s cherry cake in the last series, Waitrose saw a 25% increase in glace cherry sales; likewise after this season’s biscuit episode, sales of almonds doubled. Lakeland have opened 40 new stores since the show began, such has been the increase in demand for baking utensils. The show even seems to be having an effect on the price of baking staples such as flour and cooking chocolate, with an inflation in price while the series is shown and a drop immediately after the season finale.
Baking has become trendy, no longer the preserve of the WI – which incidentally has seen its numbers swell to 212,000, with 22,600 new members in 2011/2012 alone (though the rise has stalled somewhat since then). Suddenly tattooed bearded 30 something men are getting in on the act, giving up their day jobs to set up doughnut stalls and brownie businesses; young women at university are baking cupcakes for their flatmates, retired professionals discovering the joy of kneading bread by hand. Cake clubs are the new book clubs; The Clandestine Cake Club was founded following the first series in 2010 and now has more than 6000 members across 150 clubs and 2 baking books published. I confess, whilst researching this article I too became a member.
I was a latecomer to the Bake Off juggernaut, watching the series for the first time last year. I was instantly hooked and genuinely impressed by the level of skill on display. I am of course, no novice when it comes to baking myself; it is after all a significant part of my job description. In my professional life I bake bread on a daily basis, construct complex desserts, regularly make all kinds of pastry and have a particular love for cake making. Even I though, am intimidated by many of the challenges; the technicals are obscure, the showstoppers spectacular; the flavour combinations are at times questionable, at others inspired. Nadiya’s trio of fizzy pop flavoured cheesecakes last week for example had my mind buzzing with possibilities, capturing the essence of cream soda, ginger beer and lemonade by boiling down fizzy drinks to a flavoured syrup. It’s something I’ll be experimenting with myself.
Watching the series last year I dreamed of my long year of maternity leave; afternoons spent perfecting my baking prowess, emerging back into the workplace a powerhouse of baking supremacy. In the early hazy days of nursing my baby I sat watching hours of re-runs on obscure satellite channels, the reality already dawning on me that I would not be fashioning a three tiered hand-raised pie any time soon. Now with my ever growing son rolling around my feet as I try to prepare him a healthy home cooked supper, before he begins to shout at me that my time is up, I wonder in what world I ever thought I’d have the opportunity.
Others will have their own reasons for their fondness of the bake off; the sense of light hearted joviality amongst the contestants, thinly veiling a core of steely determination and will to win; the anticipation as we wait with baited breath as a torte is cut – has the layer of mousse set or will it emerge, oozing out in a sticky chocolate puddle? Or the drama when with “2 minutes to go” 30 delicate chocolate trees must still be piped. For some it’s the comedic turns of Mel and Sue, the endless opportunities for innuendo; for others the silver fox – really?! – oh ok maybe a little bit – that is Paul Hollywood or the learned wisdom of the great Mary Berry, 2nd in line to the throne. Could it be the sense of nostalgia, the innate ”brittishness” of it all, the marquee and garden surroundings reminiscent of the great British fete but without the need for wellies and an umbrella.
Commentators have mused that it’s the gentle feel-good nature of the format which makes it successful, harking back to a bygone era where life was simpler. For the fans I spoke to the Bake Off is so much more than that, “a show which doesn’t take itself too seriously yet has immaculate standards”, “so much fun”, an inspiration to get into the kitchen, to try new things, to experiment, to play. And after all, isn’t that what cooking should be all about?
Alison Smith @chefalismith
