The Venner Bar is a happening little place. Tucked away at the back of Bridport’s Bull Hotel, it has established itself a reputation for outstanding cocktails, served with panache. It has an old-fashioned gentleman’s club feel which belies the innovative slant of the cocktails on offer; alongside the classics, there is a Pineapple and Cardamom Daiquiri, a Hedgerow Mojito and a range of “experimental” cocktails which might include such eccentricities as smoked duck infused rum or earl grey infused Sipsmith. Manager Lloyd Brown regularly hosts tasting events and it was the latest of these that I was here to enjoy. Forced out of the Venner Bar itself and into the rather elegant ballroom by virtue of a fantastic turnout, the evening was a celebration of Dorset produced beverages, all given the Venner Bar treatment.
Since this was a Halloween themed tasting, the ballroom was given a makeover, with eerie lighting, swooping bats, an enormous pair of lips complete with fangs and of course the obligatory carved pumpkins. On arrival there were goodie bags and a drink of Appleton Estate VX and Fever Tree Ginger Ale to whet our palates, swiftly followed by shots of a condensed milk based cocktail, with pumpkin, rum, nutmeg and chai spices all served in a hollowed out pumpkin shell – naughty but oh so nice. At this point my camera went on strike – last seen hanging out at the bar with a Cosmopolitan in hand – “I am grateful therefore to the fantastic Dave at DiaMonD Images” (www.diamondimages.co.uk) for the use of his images, which capture the evening beautifully. The producers on show are all members of local food promotion body Dorset Food and Drink overseen by Dorset AONB who do great work supporting restaurants, speciality food retailers and manufacturers across the county.
First up was apple beverage entrepreneurs Liberty Fields with their fantastic Apple Aperitif (see my recipe for Apple Aperitif Parfait here https://dorseteye.com/west/articles/ali-s-foodie-column-a-recipe-to-impress) and a truly delicious toffee apple drink of vanilla, Amaretto, Apple Aperitif and lemon, complete with a chocolate dipped mini apple. I was excited to learn of their single variety apple syrup apple liqueur which is set to be launched next year and will, if prior form is anything to go by, be a product to watch out for.
Next up, the newest contender on the Dorset drinks map; Conker Gin. Founder and head distiller Rupert Holloway left his job in April 2014 to set up Dorset’s first gin distillery, selling the first bottle a year later. Seven months down the line and River Cottage HQ have removed all other gins from their shelves, so convinced are they by its merits; it’s also achieved a 2* rating at the Great Taste Awards and a Gold from Taste of the West. So unique is it in its make-up that they have coined the term “Dorset Dry” to describe it; a classic gin, with a predominant juniper flavour and lighter notes, it balances ten botanicals, with elderberry, samphire and gorse flowers alongside the classic gin aromats. On this occasion it was served with grapefruit, elderberry and tonic, a little too bitter for my tastes but a hit with my G & T loving friend.
Dorchester based The Gilded Teapot served up a twist on a Long Island Iced Tea with Yunnan Imperial, Dark Tequila and Cola and a mulled cider infused with their Winter Spice tea blend (Black tea, cinnamon, chocolate, orange and star anise). Furleigh Estate showcased their 2014 Bacchus, a Reisling Cross with Elderflower and Gooseberry notes. Excellent and a reminder that I really must visit the vineyard for one of their regular tours and tastings.
Rather surprisingly the profusion of liquor had not yet produced any casualties and after a half time belly bulker of chips, we were all raring to push ahead. Black Cow’s pure milk vodka is palatable enough to convert all but the most vodka adverse; infused with vanilla and combined with double cream and Kahlua it was positively heavenly. We were also able to enjoy Black Cow’s cheddar offering, a creamy, yet almost sticky mature block cheddar, sold in black waxed rounds.
New kids on the block the Dorset Chilli Shop presented a range of their sauces, salts and chilli based snacks, the highlight of which was, for me “Dorset Meadows” a hot-sweet chilli sauce featuring kiwi, honey, lime and Thai flavours which is apparently ideal with fish or chicken. A shot of the Venner Bar’s own exemplary Bloody Mary, featuring Dorset Fire, an exceedingly hot Naga based sauce, had me praying at the altar of the hangover gods for a direct line to one of these in the morning. Freshly squeezed tomatoes, Dorsetshire sauce and apple balsamic vinegar combine to make this quite simply the best Bloody Mary you’ll find anywhere. A shot of pineapple juice with “Pestilence”, a hot syrup with white rum, served to rather viciously reinvigorate any weary eyes.
To round off the evening in rather terrifying style, a Halloween punch with La Fée Absinthe, featuring equal measures absinthe and maraschino cherry liqueur, lemon juice, ginger puree and tonic water, dramatically presented by renowned bartender Damaine Hinds with dry ice and theatre. I confess, but for the merest sip, I passed on this one – memories (or lack of I should say) of a particularly unpleasant absinthe related incident playing on my mind – though it went down well elsewhere. Having successfully navigated half the alcoholic beverages known to man, now perhaps would have been the wisest time to head home. Instead, we headed to the Venner Bar and the promise of more tricks, treats and wizardry.
Alison Smith @chefalismith
