On Saturday 25th April, Dorset’s only Michelin starred restaurant closed its doors. Dorchester’s Sienna Restaurant run by Chef –Patron Russell Brown with Elena Brown front of house opened in 2003, gaining first 2 AA rosettes within just 7 months of opening, then a third in 2007, a place in The Good Food Guide. And finally a coveted Michelin star in 2010, which it has retained for 5 consecutive years.
In 2010 I started cooking professionally. Having had a lifelong interest in food, it was suddenly being revealed to me on a whole new level. It was at this time that I first dined at Sienna, urged to by my then head chef. It was my first Michelin starred experience and I was hooked. Never before had I tasted food with such intensity of flavour. It was food which tasted of exactly what it was – crab had never tasted more of the sea, carrot had never had such vibrancy, apricot had never tasted so floral.
In the ensuing years I have been fortunate to dine at Sienna on several occasions, each one as memorable as the last and with countless dishes which have reinforced that initial impression. Dishes which linger long in the memory include, a loin of lamb with individual shepherd’s pie, a chocolate tasting plate with bitter chocolate tart and milk chocolate shake and a canapé of goats cheese dusted in porcini powder and presented in a fluted case, so as to look exactly like a chocolate truffle. Though I have since eaten in numerous 1 and 2 star restaurants, I still maintain that no chef’s food has ever matched Russell Brown’s for flavour per bite. Russell’s food taught me that dishes don’t need to be elaborate or have 15 different elements to be exceptional. It was food which didn’t rely on gimmicks or fancy presentation. It was quite simply the finest ingredients treated with respect and prepared with skill. It was an ethic which talked to my culinary soul.
Sienna was not what one traditionally expects of a Michelin Starred restaurant; no grand dining room, no lengthy tome of a wine list, no pomp and ceremony; a sense of occasion yes but also of warmth, of being valued as a customer, welcomed into the fold. Elena Brown, running front of house was the epitome of professionalism, whilst ensuring a meal at Sienna could never be an intimidating experience.
I first met Russell when he ran a chefs day at Weymouth College, where I was studying part time for my NVQ. During the course of the day he tutored us to recreate a tasting menu of his dishes to serve to a restaurant of guests. In service I was honoured to be allowed to cook the meat and fish on the stoves alongside his chefs. At the close of the day I was fortunate enough to be awarded the title of “chef of the day” which led to the opportunity to spend some time working in his kitchen. In just a few days I learned valuable lessons about accuracy, precision and attention to detail, which I will carry with me throughout my career. His kitchen was incredibly calm; as a head chef he was patient and fair. I saw that the best kitchens didn’t need to be like the ones you see on TV, filled with egos, shouting and clanging of pans. There is room in the industry for another kind of being, one in which I felt I could fit.
I am sorry to see the closure of Sienna under Russell Brown’s leadership. It has been a huge influence on my career so far and I have such gratitude for what Russell has done for me and numerous other young chefs starting out on their culinary journeys.
For Russell though, the closure of the restaurant sees the opening of an exciting new chapter, with the launch of his new business Creative about Cuisine, encompassing his writing, consultancy and photography work. There is an exciting new website www.creativeaboutcuisine.com, including his blog, regular guest blogs and recipes, twitter account @CreativeAboutCu and you can also find some of his recipes on www.greatbritishchefs.com.
Sienna itself will be reopening in June under the ownership of Marcus Wilcox, most recently of the Rose and Crown at Trent, near Sherborne. You may also remember him as a former semi-finalist of the BBC’s Masterchef the Professionals. I wish him every success and look forward to visiting in the near future.
All photos credit to www.creativeaboutcuisine.com
Alison Smith @chefalismith
