Dorset has, in recent times, earned a reputation as a foodie hotspot. With its diverse landscape it yields an abundance of fine produce – fish and shellfish from our shores, meats and game from our hills, woodlands and pastures and specialist crops – watercress, garlic, chillies to name but a few- from our growers. Attracted by this outstanding natural larder, an array of artisan producers, small scale manufacturers, farm shops, cafes and restaurants have forged a niche for themselves here.
As a chef and food enthusiast I am inspired daily by this vibrant food culture. In this weekly column I will attempt to explore a small slice of what the Dorset food scene has to offer, meeting producers, sampling eateries and sharing some of my own recipes and inspirations.
This week, the trendy foraged ingredient you can’t fail to notice in our hedgerows and woodlands at this time of year, Wild Garlic. First sprouting in early March or even late February in places, we are coming to the end of this year’s season but there is still time to enjoy this versatile and plentiful ingredient. Avoid leaves on roadside banks, which by now will be yellowing having been exposed to the sun. Instead select younger shoots from the centre of the plant in darker woodland areas. The delicate white flowers have a more astringent flavour and are quite lovely added to a salad or as a simple garnish. Nettle is a natural bedfellow to wild garlic, both in terms of the environment in which they thrive and the recipes in which they may be utilised; here they are combined in a fresh and vibrant soup. With an iron-rich spinach-like taste it is an oft overlooked but delicious ingredient. Select the youngest leaves, picking just the tender tops and discarding any tougher stems. As an unusual accompaniment to the soup- savoury doughnuts, made with Dorset Blue Vinny and Rye Flour. Solely produced at Woodbridge Farm, Sturminster Newton, genuine Dorset Blue Vinny is a fairly hard crumbly cheese, with a rounded creaminess and a good tang of blue; a fine example of Dorset artisanal food production.
Wild Garlic and Nettle Soup with Dorset Blue Vinny Doughnuts
For the soup-
1tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 leek, chopped
250g potato, cubed (a floury variety like Maris Piper is ideal)
1.5ltr Chicken Stock (the soup benefits from the savoury depth of a good chicken stock but vegetable stock is fine as an alternative if you prefer)
300g Wild garlic leaves (about half a carrier bag full)
300g Nettle tops (leaves and young tender stems)
To garnish –
Crème Fraiche
Wild Garlic Flowers
Grate of Nutmeg (optional)
Gently sweat the onion and leek in the oil, for 10 minutes until soft but not browned. Add the potatoes and stock, bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes until the potato is soft. Add the nettle, cover with a tight fitting lid and wilt for 5 minutes. Add the Wild Garlic, cover and simmer for a further 2 minutes until all the leaves are tender. Be careful not to overcook the leaves as we wish to retain the vibrant green colour. Blitz until smooth in a jug blender and season well to taste. Top with a spoonful of Crème Fraiche, a garlic flower and a grate of nutmeg to finish.
For the doughnuts –
Vegetable oil for deep frying
15g butter, melted
1 medium egg (you will not need the whole egg)
115g buttermilk or sour cream
90g plain flour
90g rye flour (or use all plain flour which will result in a lighter texture)
20g caster sugar
1tsp baking powder
1/8 tsp bicarbonate of Soda
1/2 tsp fine salt
75g Dorset Blue Vinny, grated
Combine all the dry ingredients with the cheese, add the buttermilk/ sour cream, the butter and finally enough egg to bind to a soft but not sticky dough. Roll out to a thickness of 2cm on a lightly floured surface and cut into rounds with a 5cm biscuit cutter. Deep fry at 150° for 8 minutes, turning occasionally until puffed up and cooked through. Increase the heat to 190° and fry for 2 minutes turning halfway through, until crisp and golden.
Serve hot alongside the soup.
Alison Smith @chefalismith
