I am not in the habit of writing restaurant reviews. Being employed in the trade I would be considered somewhat biased and likely also unduly harsh. However I will not shy away from highlighting the new and exceptional where I see it as was the case this week.
I was privileged to be invited to The Anchor Inn, Seatown for an advance view of their new menu. Renowned chef Jean-Paul de Ronne has recently joined them and launched his new menu on Monday (14th September).
The Anchor Inn enjoys a unique position on the east cliff side of Golden Cap, directly overlooking Seatown beach. It was recently fully refurbished by Bridport brewery Palmers at a cost of over £1million and reopened in May 2014 to much acclaim. There are now three stunning guest bedrooms which have extensive sea views, king size beds and luxurious en-suite bathrooms, complete with roll top baths.
The dining and bar areas have retained a sense of rustic charm, with lots of interesting features and decorative touches but it’s outside where The Anchor really does come into its own. There is a cliff side beer garden with sweeping views out to sea and a stunning sun-trap of a terrace, just perfect for sipping cocktails from top mixologist David Smith who has recently joined the team.
We were presented with a selection of samples from the new menu. The menu is divided into three areas “land”, “field” and “sea”, demonstrating the close connection that the food enjoys with its’ environment. There is a strong emphasis on local sourcing, seasonality and a good smattering of foraged ingredients. The Anchor has always had a reputation for offering good solid pub classics and these are retained but with a Jean-Paul de Ronne twist. Ham, egg and chips becomes “apple roasted pork belly ham”, a great slab of cured pork belly, topped with crispy crackling with a piquant pickled apple sauce and a crispy duck egg, complete with perfect liquid yolk; there is a ‘mac ‘n’ cheese’, creamy and unctuous, with rich pulled lamb and a chilli kick; the burger too is exemplary, thick and moist with an assortment of exciting garnishes which elevate it far beyond the average pub offering. Alongside these hearty offerings are a carpaccio of venison, described on the menu as “deer, mushroom ketchup, sea kale”, thin slivers of melt in the mouth meat, with dainty pickled wild mushrooms and iron rich crispy fried kale; a feather light salad of crab and avocado and a ham hock terrine with vibrant deconstructed piccalilli.
Vegetarians will be pleased to find they are well catered for, with the “land” section of the menu enjoying an equal billing as the meat and fish but these are dishes that even the most hardened meat eater could not fail to enjoy; Dorset Blue Vinney gnocchi with sweet corn bisque, pear and walnuts, a Bloody Mary risotto with local Black Cow vodka, a vibrant salad of tomato, ricotta and pine nuts. It’s refreshing to see meat-free cooking treated with the same level of reverence as its carnivorous counterparts.
This really is pub food at its best, elevated beyond the mundane whilst not forgetting its roots. I look forward to returning and enjoying the full experience, not forgetting of course, dessert – if the photos that have been appearing on twitter are anything to go by I’m in for a treat.
Alison Smith @chefalismith
