It’s one of our most recognisable signs of the imminent advance of summer; the transformation of great swaths of our green and pleasant land into a blazing carpet of yellow with the flowering of the rapeseed fields each May. For me it also brings with it a great sense of nostalgia, my father grew rapeseed on the arable farm, on which I spent a magical few years in early childhood. For some years though the quality of the end product has not matched the vivacity of its floral display.
Many of the vegetable oils sold cheaply in the supermarkets are derived from rapeseed and it has long been perceived as a cheap frying oil. Now Andy Fussel and his fellow cold pressed rapeseed oil producers are working to overturn this inferior image. Fussels Extra Virgin Rapeseed Oil is unrecognisable from its supermarket cousins. Grown, harvested, cold pressed and bottled on the family’s farm in Somerset, it is a labour of love.
Rapeseed oil is fast being recognised as an excellent alternative to olive oil, with the advantage of being not only English but perhaps with even greater health benefits than its more famous European brother. Lower in saturated fats and higher in healthy monounsaturated fats, it has 10 times the levels of omega 3, a better omega 3 to omega 6 ratio and is an excellent source of vitamin E. With a higher burn point than olive oil, it is a more versatile oil, lending itself to deep fat and shallow frying and with its vibrant colour and complex flavour, less bitter than extra virgin olive oil, it makes a delicious dipping oil or base for mayonnaise.
Alongside the extra virgin rapeseed oil Fussels produce a range of flavoured oils, vinaigrettes, dressings and mayonnaises, all created with the same care and dedication to provenance. Their smoked rapeseed oil came about after a suggestion by a regular customer, inspired by a smoked cheese. It has a deep oak smoke flavour which for me, suggests uses in autumnal dishes, alongside musky woodland flavours- mushrooms and game. Here I use it to imbue a subtle smokiness to a light pigeon dish to serve as a starter or light lunch. The smoked beetroot puree would also work well alongside a semi-soft goat’s cheese or a ripe and creamy camembert style cheese atop oat cakes or crisp bread.
Pigeon breast with smoked beetroot and walnut crumble (to serve 6)
The smoked beetroot can be made ahead of time. Bring to room temperature before serving.
For the beetroot
500g beetroot
40g caster sugar
Sea salt
Handful thyme, leaves picked
1/2tbsp + 2tbsp rapeseed oil
2tbsp smoked rapeseed oil
-Preheat the oven to 180°, gas mark 4. Dice the beetroot into 2cm cubes, toss in the sugar, salt thyme leaves and 1/2tbsp rapeseed oil. Spread in a single layer in a shallow ovenproof dish and cover with foil. Roast for 30 minutes or until cooked through and beginning to caramelise. Place in a food processor and blitz well, gradually adding the remaining 2tbsp rapeseed oil and 2tbsp smoked rapeseed, until you have a fairly smooth but thick puree.
For the walnut crumble
100g wholemeal flour
100g porridge oats
75g unsalted butter
Sea salt
50g walnut pieces
-Rub together the flour, oats, butter and a good pinch of salt until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Roughly chop the walnuts and add to the mix. Place on a baking tray and press firmly to compact. Cook for 6 minutes , then mix, being careful not to break it up too much, drawing in the outer edges so that they colour evenly. Cook for a further 4 minutes or until crisp and lightly golden.
For the pigeon and dressing
1tbsp rapeseed oil
6 pigeon breasts, skin on
2tbsp red wine vinegar
2tsp wholegrain mustard
Sea salt and pepper
1-2tbsp smoked rapeseed oil
Bunch watercress
-Heat the rapeseed oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Season the pigeon well on both sides. Add the pigeon breasts, skin-side down. Cook for 2 minutes until the skin is crisp. Turn the breasts over and transfer to the oven for a further 2 minutes. Remove from the pan and leave to rest for 5 minutes.
– Deglaze the pan with the red wine vinegar, scraping with a wooden spoon to release all the tasty caramelised bits. Bubble down a little; add the mustard, any juices from the resting pigeon and enough smoked oil to make a slightly sharp smoky dressing. Season.
– Spoon a quenelle of beetroot (at room temperature) onto each plate; halve the pigeon breast on the diagonal and rest against the beetroot. Sprinkle with a handful of warm crumble and dress with watercress. Finally drizzle the dressing over the pigeon and dot a little around the plate. Serve immediately.
Fussels range of Rapeseed products are available to purchase at farm shops across the county, in selected retailers nationwide & online at www.fusselsfinefoods.co.uk
Ali Smith @chefalismith
