As venues go, the location for the Spring Tide food festival at The Hive Beach, Burton Bradstock, is fairly unbeatable. Ever popular for its family friendly beach, the famous Hive Beach Café and newly opened Seaside Boarding house, a food fair here was a sure fire winner. In its sixth year and with over 50 traders, primarily food centred, alongside a sprinkling of crafts people, the two day event appears to be going from strength to strength. On the Saturday I visited, bright sunshine and considerable crowds contributed to a convivial atmosphere befitting the fine local produce on display.
Main Spring Tide photograph credit to West Dorset Foodie
Dorset is now producing some exciting and innovative spirits and beverages with Black Cow, the worlds’ only pure milk vodka and Conker Spirit, a brand new Dorset dry gin, among the more premium examples. To add to this growing bar menu, is Liberty Fields’ Apple Aperitif. On a bright spring day, a glass of “Pommes”- Apple Aperitif, Gin and Lemonade- was just the ticket but served neat the sticky toffee notes really shone through. I’m looking forward to using it to enhance my late summer apple desserts, perhaps in a parfait or, as suggested by one twitter user, reduced down to a syrup for ice cream.
The prominence of the dairy industry in our agricultural landscape was in clear evidence, with diverse displays from Ford Farm, James’s Cheese and Woolsery cheese. Ford Farm’s Coastal cheddar with its salty calcium crystals has long been a personal favourite, whilst I’ve used the semi-soft washed rind Francis on my cheeseboard menu. Flavoured cheeses do seem to be becoming increasingly popular, though there are no doubt many purists who would shy away from such dalliance. My cheese revelation of the day was a cow’s milk cheese with cumin seeds from James’s Cheese, with a real kick of pungent warmth, certainly no shrinking violet. Another dairy discovery was a Nettle and Herb Goats Cheese from Woolsery based at Up Sydling near Dorchester. I’ve utilised it here with some beautiful Bothen Hill Asparagus.
The English asparagus season must surely be one of the most eagerly anticipated events on the foodie calendar. Traditionally running from 24th April to 21st June, the window of opportunity to enjoy this wonderful ingredient is short and therefore all the more precious. Modern farming methods and customer demand has resulted in an extended season and most recently in purple and white as well as the more traditional green spears, being available in this country for the first time. Coinciding perfectly is the beginning of the pea season, at their best now when they are young and sweet. Broad beans begin to filter onto the market in late May, becoming more abundant in June. It is just for just a few short weeks therefore that all three may convene on our dinner tables, in one triumphant synergy.
For me such fine ingredients are best enjoyed simply prepared and on a warm June day I can think of few things more enjoyable than a picnic salad by the coast with a good artisan loaf and perhaps even a glass or two of “pommes”!
Salad of asparagus, peas and broad beans with Woolsery goat’s cheese
1 clove garlic
Juice ½ lemon
3tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 Bunch English Asparagus
1 handful shelled fresh peas
1 handful shelled broad beans
2 baby gem lettuces
Small handful mint leaves
75g Woolsery goats’ cheese with nettle and herbs – alternatively any good hard goats’ cheese or a Parmesan style cows’ cheese would work well
For the dressing – crush the garlic, combine with the lemon juice, then slowly add the olive oil, whisking to combine. Season with fine sea salt.
For the salad – Cook the peas in boiling water for 2 minutes or until tender (do not salt the water or the peas will become tough). Drain and plunge into cold water. Repeat with the broad beans. Pop the broad beans out of their inner shells.
Heat a griddle pan until smoking. Halve the baby gems, remove the heart and sear on the griddle pan for a few seconds until the edges of the leaves are nicely caramelised. Chargrill the asparagus on the griddle pan, turning occasionally until slightly blackened on each side. Take them off the heat when still slightly crisp, they will continue to cook as they cool. Chargrilling the asparagus lends a smokiness which marries well with the hay flavours of the goats’ cheese.
Separate the baby gem leaves and toss in a bowl with the peas, broad beans and asparagus. Add the mint leaves, roughly torn and toss through the lemon dressing to coat. Season with a grind of black pepper and some coarse sea salt. Arrange on a serving platter and top with shavings of cheese. Serve at room temperature.
Alison Smith @chefalismith
